Labdanum

Labdanum – from the Cistus plant (better known to some gardeners as Rock Rose) – is a pillar of chypre perfumes and many Ambrées. What you smell actually comes from a sticky brown resin, taken from a plant that grows (often in very inhospitable, dry locations) in the Mediterranean, North Africa and the Middle East. Harvesting techniques have become somewhat more sophisticated since the time when labdanum was collected from the coats and beards of sheep and goats that grazed on these tough little shrubs…! (Labdanum is today extracted from the leaves using solvents, although the branches can also be boiled.)

The early Arab perfumers used labdanum in their recipes – ‘the sweetest-scented of all substances’, as it was described, its links to perfumery actually go back to Egyptian time, when labdanum (a.k.a. ladanon, black balsam and gum cistus) was a key ingredient in the kyphi incense blend, used for ceremonial purposes. It’s also referred to in the Bible (as Balm of Gilead). In natural medicine, labdanum’s prescribed to boost the immune system.

One of the reasons it’s so widely used now is that it mimics the scent of ambergris – it’s also referred to as ‘amber’ – but it’s also a ‘fixative’, helping other ingredients to stay true, and to stay put. This warm and complex resin is sometimes perceived as leathery, sometimes honey-like, with hints of plum.

That may be a bit dramatic… but at the very least, a large part of the olfactive art would be missing.

Labdanum is one of the oldest known aromatics throughout history. With appearances in the Bible, ancient Egypt, the pharmacy, and even some liquors. It’s responsible for the transcendent sweet-resinous-balsamic aroma that marks the base of many perfumes, both indie and commercial alike. It’s become a hallmark to the family of scent known as "amber”.

Cistus painting used with permission from Mandy Aftel of Aftelier Perfumes© who painted beautiful cistus plants based on her antique B&W engravings from her 300-year-old botanical books.

The resin of labdanum comes from a low-lying shrub Cistus ladinifer that thrives in rocky outcrops along the Mediterranean coast. It’s also known as Rock Rose, named for the 5-petaled white flowers that look akin to the common tea rose. But it’s not the flowers that give us the scent of Labdanum… for that, we turn to goats. Legend has it, that it was Arabian goat farmers that mistakenly discovered this sticky aromatic resin. In the heat of the noon sun, the cistus plant excretes a resinous, thick sap from its leaves and branches (thought to protect the plant from losing moisture).

Banebdjedet of Mendes Illustration of the god Banebdjedet or Banebdjed (“Ba of the Lord of Mendes”) depicted with four rams’ heads. He was the ba of Ra, Shu, Geb and Osiris. via wiki art

When grazing goats came to snack upon the cistus bush, their furs would become saturated in this thick, amber-like sap… much to the dismay of the farmers, who were responsible for cleaning it out. But this is where something historic happens – As the farmers attempted to comb these clumps of sticky mass out of their goats furs, they noticed it’s pleasing, persistent sweet aroma. Goats are notoriously smelly beasts by nature, so this must have seemed of divine origin.

Queen Hatshepsut depicted as a King with the White crown of Upper Egypt and labdanum beard/ Wikimedia commons via public domain.

And indeed, it was. In Ancient Egypt, labdanum was held as sacred; thought to have been created from the “Tears of Osiris “, which fell from the heavens on to the cistus bush, to create this aromatic resin. Pharaohs of the time were seen wearing faux beards of braided goat furs, soaked in labdanum, as a symbol of leadership and connection to the heavens (as first argued by Egyptian Scholar Percy E. Newberry)

Clockwise: Cretan goat covered with labdanum resin , ladanisterion tool, and Cistus Creticus in bloom.

And the goats? They were celebrated as the manifestations of an Osirian deity known as “Ram of Mendes.” Thus, a new commodity was born. At first, goat farmers began raking the sticky resin from the goats using crude leather combs, or simply shaving their goats altogether and selling their resin-saturated hair throughout the Mediterranean. Harvesting practices soon evolved to include something known as lambadistrion – a whip-like device with two rows of many leather strips. These were swept over the cistus bushes to collect the sticky resins. It’s not as common, but a few small farms still use tools that resemble this ancient original. Today, labdanum is widely collected without the help of goats. It’s primarily harvested by cutting the entire bush and submerging the leaves and branches in boiling water, causing the sticky resins to float to the top. This gives us the a grade of crude labdanum resin, sometimes called an “oleoresin” or “gum”.

Taking that crude resin and furthering refined via solvent extraction will yield labdanum absolute; a golden-amber, very sticky, substance with a consistency like that of honey. Its aroma is incredibly rich, resinous, sweet-balsamic with nuances of ambergris and hints of wood. Very potent and used though numerous formulas, across almost all genres – but most notoriously in amber-type perfumes. Steam distillation of the crude resin will result in a whole new material; know as “Cistus”. While similar in tone to Labdanum, Cistus is really its own little world – it’s brighter, louder and more fruity-balsamic with a dry-woody note as it dies down. When added to a forest or amber blend, it has an incredibly ability to breathe air into a composition, as if lifting and expanding from the bottom up. If labdanum is the “Bass”, then Cistus is more like an “Alto”, or even “Soprano”.

Today, Labdanum, even has a place on WebMD, where it can be found as a treatment for a host of ailments, including lung infections (bronchitis), Diarrhea, edema and menstrual problems. This is due to the powerful cocktail of substances within Labdanum’s chemistry (mainly sesquiterpenes); which are thought to stop viruses from attacking human cells.

From the bellies of goats, to the chins of pharaohs and back to the pharmacy- we have a lot to thank this sticky aromatic resin for.

Labdanum, also known as rockrose or Cistus ladanifer, is a resin obtained from the leaves and stems of certain rockrose plants. It has a long history of use in traditional medicine and perfumery. While labdanum has not been extensively studied in modern scientific research, it has been attributed several potential health benefits, though more research is needed to confirm these effects. Here are some of the ways labdanum may contribute to human health:

Aromatherapy: Labdanum is often used in aromatherapy and perfumery due to its rich, warm, and resinous scent. Aromatherapy with labdanum may help reduce stress, anxiety, and promote relaxation, which can have positive effects on mental health and well-being.
Skin Care: Labdanum has been used in traditional skincare for its potential benefits for the skin. It is thought to have antimicrobial properties and may help with wound healing. However, it's important to note that the effects on skin health are not well-documented in modern scientific literature.
Anti-inflammatory Properties: Some studies suggest that labdanum resin may have anti-inflammatory properties. In traditional medicine, it has been used topically for soothing irritated skin and reducing inflammation. However, more research is needed to confirm these effects.
Respiratory Health: Labdanum has been used in the past to alleviate respiratory issues, such as coughs and bronchitis. It may have mild expectorant properties, which can help with clearing mucus from the airways.
Antioxidant Activity: Labdanum contains compounds that have potential antioxidant properties. Antioxidants can help protect the body from oxidative stress and free radical damage, which is associated with various chronic diseases.
Wound Healing: Some traditional uses of labdanum involve its application to wounds and cuts to aid in the healing process. It is believed to have some antimicrobial properties, which could help prevent infection.
Emotional Well-Being: The aroma of labdanum may have mood-enhancing effects and can be used in spiritual and meditative practices.

It's important to note that while labdanum has been used for these purposes in traditional medicine and perfumery, there is limited scientific evidence to support many of these claims. The safety and efficacy of labdanum for specific health benefits have not been well-established through clinical trials. If you are considering using labdanum for its potential health benefits, it's essential to consult with a healthcare professional and use it cautiously, especially if you have allergies or skin sensitivities.

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